Random thoughts for the day

Anybody point me in the right direction to pick up a little knowledge about cold start and warm up, open loop and closed loop, and how O2 sensors are in play for that warm up period?
 
I think service interval is key, appropriate for your driving habits.  With performance cars, driven in that style, I feel it is better to stick to severe duty intervals rather than "normal".  If you do that, the Ford fluids should be just fine, though you can certainly upgrade if you so desire.  Full synthetic is preferred pretty much across the board for all the fluids.  One addendum:  brake fluid is not mentioned at all that I can see in Ford's services, but flushing it regularly would be good too, say, every time you change pads/rotors.

Larrylu said:
Anybody point me in the right direction to pick up a little knowledge about cold start and warm up, open loop and closed loop, and how O2 sensors are in play for that warm up period?
Click to expand...
For a quick definition:
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/58339-Definition-of-Closed-Loop-vs-Open-Loop?p=610557

Bike-related post, but still the basics apply:
http://bikeboy.org/open_closed_loop_efi.html
 
Very interesting and educational. I'm thinking this is playing a part in my ongoing KR spike issue.  Thanks again for the tip!
 
SHOdded said:
I think service interval is key, appropriate for your driving habits.  With performance cars, driven in that style, I feel it is better to stick to severe duty intervals rather than "normal".  If you do that, the Ford fluids should be just fine, though you can certainly upgrade if you so desire.  Full synthetic is preferred pretty much across the board for all the fluids.  One addendum:  brake fluid is not mentioned at all that I can see in Ford's services, but flushing it regularly would be good too, say, every time you change pads/rotors.

Larrylu said:
Anybody point me in the right direction to pick up a little knowledge about cold start and warm up, open loop and closed loop, and how O2 sensors are in play for that warm up period?
Click to expand...
For a quick definition:
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/58339-Definition-of-Closed-Loop-vs-Open-Loop?p=610557

Bike-related post, but still the basics apply:
http://bikeboy.org/open_closed_loop_efi.html
Click to expand...
I'm looking at redline, royal purple and mobile 1 as a replacement. Do you know how to find out what transmission I have?  The manual has specs for 3 different transmissions. No numbers on the fill cap maybe on the Trans case.
 
I have always liked Castrol for oil/trans fluid, some of the best around, if you want to throw that into the mix ;)
 
I am basically refering to the owners manuel which says to use M.C mercon LV fluid,11.6 quarts for the 6F55 transmission,rear differential (AWD)Fluid M.C SAE 80w-90 2.4 pints,Power transfer unit (PTU)M.C SAE 75W-140 synthetic rear axle lubricant 18 ounces,based on 13 SHO manuel.
 
After reading into it more I think I'm just going to drain out what I can and put Mercon LV back in since I don't know if redline will mix with it.

So far redline D6 ATF is the only one that says it's "suitable" for Mercon LV replacement. What ever that means...
 
 
SHOdded said:
In case you are worried that the Mercon LV is looking dirty:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUBoXyQ7UDQ

Alternatives to Motorcraft:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=30704
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLQT-EA
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/oe-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=OTLQT-EA
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/automatic-transmission-products/automatic-transmission-fluid/37
http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/transmax-dexron.html

Need more?  :D
Click to expand...
That's impressive.. hah. Thanks for all the work that had taken. Wonder why  LV looks like that so soon... :/
 
Larrylu said:
Very interesting and educational. I'm thinking this is playing a part in my ongoing KR spike issue.  Thanks again for the tip!
Click to expand...
Except that apparently the 3.5 EB does not follow this same method of control logic, which I'd understood as being universal.

It has been a topic here before. Instead, it appears that the EB ECU only operates in open loop, ignoring sensor feedback only in cold start operation, or perhaps in the event of failure or failsafe. Under load/acceleration, the EB continues to fuel based on sensor loopback data, or closed loop. Pretty unorthodox.

I saw you mention some KR issues in another post. KR can ghost on you quite a bit, as it can at all times register normal engine noises or rattles in the same range of frequency as real knock. Or, it could be minor detonation under light loads, as a result of a method of maximizing efficiency by advancing ignition timing to extreme levels. Either way, many engine tuners ignore it, so long as it isn't occurring at the onset or during high load situations.
 
Thanks that's good to know. I was assuming from my general reading/studying up, that if given enough throttle, it would revert to open loop. If that's not the case, IDK. I'm  tempted to retire the KR gauge as it takes up a fair chunk of my valuable tablet screen. Trying to figure out what is going on, been driving me crazy for months. I wonder if removing the engine cover (which I did) could promote general engine noise, as it does provide a pretty thick layer of sound deadener.........
 
Larrylu said:
Thanks that's good to know. I was assuming from my general reading/studying up, that if given enough throttle, it would revert to open loop. If that's not the case, IDK. I'm  tempted to retire the KR gauge as it takes up a fair chunk of my valuable tablet screen. Trying to figure out what is going on, been driving me crazy for months. I wonder if removing the engine cover (which I did) could promote general engine noise, as it does provide a pretty thick layer of sound deadener.........
Click to expand...
Yes, that is because that is literally how control logic works in every other automobile. It seems wreckless and implausible. I'd never heard of WOT closed loop control, and while I still have yet to verify this claim on my own (lazy, right), there have been several owners here who've confirmed it.
I'd still love to hear some facts on this.
 
Well an easy way to confirm would be to set up a "loop" gauge. Ecoboostsho mentioned there was that capability in Torque Pro. A quick WOT would confirm open or closed loop. 
 
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