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Car update.
- Thread starter RagingPenguin
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RagingPenguin
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I'm unsure, I used PID 2203EC and Signed(A)/2+(B/512) however, when I try to enter this into the app now its an invalid value?FoMoCoSHO said:In your log, is that the knock sensor raw pid?
EDIT- sorry thats KR, I'm assuming I used raw PID.
RagingPenguin
New member
FoMoCoSHO said:I would get that o2 sensor handled and go from there.
You thinking thats my issue also?
RagingPenguin
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Trust me I want to fix everything, my 04 F150 can attest to that. The code was present last year but they replaced the O2 sensor on the other side, I personally never saw a code for bank 1 in my dealings but did see several for bank 2, incidentally that was the side with the mangled piston.ajpturbo said:It appears to be A issue....perhaps not the only issue....it seems like people don't want to fix everything on their car...only something that they thing is causing the annoying problem....fix everything lol
02 is ordered, if that doesn't do it, I may see if some friends want to help me remove the head and take a look.
RagingPenguin
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If I had fuel delivery issues. Would the car flash a code for the injector or rail at all?
RagingPenguin
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I'll start with O2. Then clean up all sensors on intake side. Can I use MAF cleaner?
MAF cleaner is the holy grail,spray all the sensors liberally with the cleaner such as the MAP sensors,CACT,TCBP,IAT,could have oil and dirt buildup inside,also throw a can of chevron cleaner inside the tank,some basic maintenance is always a good start especially with the GDI,and some TLC (tender loving care)is never to much for our engines and should never be neglected for optimum performance. Z
Yes...I'm sure there's a pinpoint test but with that code, the age of the vehicle, and the recent gen 4.1 O2 sensor failures here, I'd try it first. Worst case scenario you're preemptively replacing a vital part before it fails. Best case you're back in business. Win either way.RagingPenguin said:FoMoCoSHO said:I would get that o2 sensor handled and go from there.
You thinking thats my issue also?
RagingPenguin
New member
Can't argue that.
If I'm still experiencing the rattle after the o2 and cleaning all my sensors what should I look at next?
If I'm still experiencing the rattle after the o2 and cleaning all my sensors what should I look at next?
RagingPenguin
New member
Did not.
Probably should have but Ford wasn't budging
Is there anyway to inspect without totally removing? It could be a wastegate issues
I did inspect turbos earlier this year and didn't see any oil leaking from either of them. Both were very clean.
Probably should have but Ford wasn't budging
Is there anyway to inspect without totally removing? It could be a wastegate issues
I did inspect turbos earlier this year and didn't see any oil leaking from either of them. Both were very clean.
RagingPenguin
New member
FoMoCoSHO said:With the rattle noise you are describing under very specific circumstances, I suspect that's not the issue.
LME seems to have dealt with some bad timing chain/tensioner issues, maybe hit them up to see what they think?
Is the rattle on the side the assembly is on?
And are you sure it's not the tranny?
Noise is on drivers side of motor. Can't verify or promise that though.
Car used to have a small timing chain rattle on start but it longer exists after the short block.
Can't really guess at the transmisson. So far the car hasn't done anything weird with shifts or anything like that. Had one instance where it felt like it failed to go in gear. But I don't know if that was the car protecting itself or the transmission.
Also it doesn't bother me to much to replace the transmission or PTU. I just don't love the idea of killing the motor a second time.
Oil changes are always full synthetic with a motorcraft fl500s.
Generally done every 5-7000KM depending on driving etc
RagingPenguin
New member
I've got an extra cell phone that I'll try again with. How ever last time the motor was simply to loud. I'll position further from intake as I suspect that was my mistake last time.SHOdded said:Run the car with the engine cover off, see if you can get a better fix on the noise location (better still if you have a camera you can affix underhood). It may be something with the HPFP or the fuel rail. The HPFP does fail sometimes.
I'll do this after I receive the O2 sensor and clean up the sensors on intake.
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Regardless of what is going on I would switch to a higher quality oil ASAP.
Between fuel dilution, timing chain issues, etc I believe a high quality oil is mandatory in these cars.
I'm currently running BND's Quantum Blue but it will be a bit before I have any data from an oil analysis.
You can't go wrong with Amsoil though and Rich is a vendor.
Between fuel dilution, timing chain issues, etc I believe a high quality oil is mandatory in these cars.
I'm currently running BND's Quantum Blue but it will be a bit before I have any data from an oil analysis.
You can't go wrong with Amsoil though and Rich is a vendor.
RagingPenguin
New member
Due to my location I'll have to source a local vendor. I do know of one. Amsoil filters recommended also?FoMoCoSHO said:Regardless of what is going on I would switch to a higher quality oil ASAP.
Between fuel dilution, timing chain issues, etc I believe a high quality oil is mandatory in these cars.
I'm currently running BND's Quantum Blue but it will be a bit before I have any data from an oil analysis.
You can't go wrong with Amsoil though and Rich is a vendor.
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