Car update.

[ajpturbo]

Get a preferred customer membership..it's worth it and u just get it shipped..no need for a local vendor

Basically there are people that think they know what true synthetic oil is and then there are people that know what amsoils is...if u have to ask then read about group Iv/v oil

 

[RagingPenguin]

So what you're saying is it's the best. Ok I can live with that. Should switch my 04 f150 over to it also.

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[ajpturbo]

I actually use amsoil signature series oil in my lawnmower and weed wacker lol....I use it in my wife's car because she has a turbo direct injection motor and for the extended drain interval

 

[SHOnUup]

Thanks for the reference FoMoCoSHO!

I couldn't agree with AJ anymore, Amsoil is the real deal.

Check out this thread for ordering information and links to do so.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=5282.0

Feel free to message me or post to MotorCity Synthetics in the vendor area.

I'd like to go on more, but I'm sick (kids already brought it home from school) and it's bed time.


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[ZSHO]

Thanks for the reference FoMoCoSHO!

I couldn't agree with AJ anymore, Amsoil is the real deal.

Check out this thread for ordering information and links to do so.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=5282.0

Feel free to message me or post to MotorCity Synthetics in the vendor area.

I'd like to go on more, but I'm sick (kids already brought it home from school) and it's bed time.


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Wishing you and the boys a speedy recovery.  BTW my daughter (also),something going around,good time to get a flu shot.  Z

 

[SHOnUup]

Thanks for the reference FoMoCoSHO!

I couldn't agree with AJ anymore, Amsoil is the real deal.

Check out this thread for ordering information and links to do so.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=5282.0

Feel free to message me or post to MotorCity Synthetics in the vendor area.

I'd like to go on more, but I'm sick (kids already brought it home from school) and it's bed time.


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Wishing you and the boys a speedy recovery.  BTW my daughter (also),something going around,good time to get a flu shot.  Z

Thanks buddy...think it was food poisoning now. Probably lost 5 pounds yesterday...ugh

Little one has sniffles and cough, but no fever...so he's still in school touching it out.

Only year the boys ever got really sick, the year they got flu shots. No severe sickness since they've quit getting them.

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[RagingPenguin]

Putting new O2 sensor in now, just going to get the proper socket.
Front sensor looks new, sensor one in bank two looks old. Might check harness to ensure no wear through. Is there anything I can test with a multimeter?

 

[ajpturbo]

No idea....but make sure u are changing the correct sensor that the code was referring to

And are you sure u got a sensor for the front near the turbo?..did u get a motorcraft sensor?

 

[RagingPenguin]

No idea....but make sure u are changing the correct sensor that the code was referring to

P0150 is the sensor deals with rad side sensor before cat isn't it?
Bank 1 is front of car. Bank 2 is firewall side. At least that's what I've read.

EDIT. Got dicombobulated.
Bank one firewall bank 2 rad side


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[BiGMaC]

No idea....but make sure u are changing the correct sensor that the code was referring to

P0150 is the sensor deals with rad side sensor before cat isn't it?
Bank 1 is front of car. Bank 2 is firewall side. At least that's what I've read.

That is incorrect.. Bank 1 is the firewall side and bank 2 is the radiator side... Longer DP on bank 2.

 

[SHOdded]

No, Bank 1 is firewall side, Bank 2 is radiator side of the engine.  The cylinders (as you sweep from passengerside to driverside) are numbered 1,2,3 on Bank 1 and 4,5,6 on Bank 2.

As far as "Bank" notation, imagine the engine rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise from where it sits now.  That is how it would sit in the F150.  Traditionally, engines sat this way in automobiles before the advent of FWD.  The "left" bank is Bank 1, the "right" bank is Bank 2.

P0130 - Bank 1, O2 Sensor 1
P0140 - Bank 1, O2 Sensor 2
P0150 - Bank 2, O2 Sensor 1
P0160 - Bank 2, O2 Sensor 2

 

[RagingPenguin]

No, Bank 1 is firewall side, Bank 2 is radiator side of the engine.  The cylinders (as you sweep from passengerside to driverside) are numbered 1,2,3 on Bank 1 and 4,5,6 on Bank 2.

As far as "Bank" notation, imagine the engine rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise from where it sits now.  That is how it would sit in the F150.  Traditionally, engines sat this way in automobiles before the advent of FWD.  The "left" bank is Bank 1, the "right" bank is Bank 2.

Yup your right. Had the code location correct but explanation wrong
Also when I went to check code again it's gone.
Only time this code appears is after a few WOT pulls and I never get a CEL from it. Always a stored code

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[RagingPenguin]

No idea....but make sure u are changing the correct sensor that the code was referring to

And are you sure u got a sensor for the front near the turbo?..did u get a motorcraft sensor?

Yup. Upstream motorcraft sensor. 230$. Down streams were half as much.
8F9Z 9F472 B

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[ajpturbo]

No idea....but make sure u are changing the correct sensor that the code was referring to

And are you sure u got a sensor for the front near the turbo?..did u get a motorcraft sensor?

Yup. Upstream motorcraft sensor. 230$. Down streams were half as much.
8F9Z 9F472 B

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Ah thats a good lad....ur car will thank u....im sure other brands are ok but its good for the 2 primary sensors to match. They are scaled for lambda vs voltage and report to the ecu small voltage variations between brands could have an effect...not that motorcraft is the best for parts all the time but i think motorcraft uses ntk sensors which are top of the line...but u probaly overpaid

 

[RagingPenguin]

Ah thats a good lad....ur car will thank u....im sure other brands are ok but its good for the 2 primary sensors to match. They are scaled for lambda vs voltage and report to the ecu small voltage variations between brands could have an effect...not that motorcraft is the best for parts all the time but i think motorcraft uses ntk sensors which are top of the line...but u probaly overpaid

Canada... Exchange rate is killing me. My last order (950) came out to be 1300. Ouch

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[RagingPenguin]

Saw somewhere in here that misfires can damage the cats. Just thinking out loud but is there any chance that when that piston blew up it ruined them?

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[RagingPenguin]

No change with cleaned sensors and new O2. No new code and couldn't get it to come back

https://youtu.be/Ho2vsGLMJ58
Under hood clip. 1.35 1.38.

Good news is you can hear the noise. Better news man those turbos sound SO good.



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[SHOdded]

Very clean audio capture.  Though the sound you mention is more of a ratcheting sound to me?  Like a cable shift in a manual trans or a manual throttle body/plate might make.  Doesn't sound like the engine/trans itself moving around on the mounts.

Here's another guy wondering if his SHO sounds "normal":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk4cgvWw7Qc

Sound not as clear on this new SHO review, but take a gander:
https://youtu.be/BE2eTj3Bm2g?t=5m17s

 

[RagingPenguin]

Sounds a bit different in car. Guys that I know don't think motor.
One had suggested something in driveline being unbalanced.




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[RagingPenguin]

Went out with three phones and tried several areas under hood,
First posted video was captured from battery

Put a phone up on rad support, noise was very quiet there, had another strapped to coolant tank, same thing, just heard it there.

Strapped phone down low on cross member by the turbo. Noise was audible there.

Starting to suspect something in transmission/ driveline noise.
https://youtu.be/opThjjuDnOU

1.07 Rolling accel
2.27... shoulder.. don't panic
2.50 1-2 2-3 pull
3.35  1-2 2-3 pull

Anyone else have any ideas?