AJPTurbo boost regulator mod with EcoPowerParts charge pipes

Just think about that for a second...4.78 seconds 0-60 in a v6 family sports sedan with an automatic and V6 engine and 4400 lbs goes in snow goes on vacation gets 25 highway...might not kill the 1/4 mile but a force at stoplights

Times are good...werent supercars dreaming of that speed 10 years ago?

Great car it is...kinda like a muscle car...fat heavy powerful and fun
 
derfdog15 said:
MiWiAu said:
No E-xperimentation for me. This is a DD, and my wife drives it when I'm out of town for work. I worry enough that she'll put the right fuel in, so I don't want to make it any more complex for her.

I did the knock sensor wire fix early on when I was working with Torrie to try and bring down knock. No discernible difference pre/post mod for me.

I'm still happy where I'm at with my AJP tunes for a 4700lb beast (not including my flub).


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Gotcha, definitely makes sense.

Also, small update, cause I got curious. The 0-60 on my multi gear pull (in 17.6 degree ambient) was 4.78 seconds, and as you can see in the attached screenshot, I was not at full boost in 1st or 2nd due to traction issues (slipped almost all the way to third). That alone tells me the car is much much quicker as it is now.
The 4.78 seconds, did you just figure that out from the log? I have done it this way, and with an app on my phone. Unfortunately the log numbers aren't as nice as the ones from my phone. But I bet they are far more accurate. My phone says low 4's high 3's logs are high 4's..


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f8tlSHO said:
The 4.78 seconds, did you just figure that out from the log? I have done it this way, and with an app on my phone. Unfortunately the log numbers aren't as nice as the ones from my phone. But I bet they are far more accurate. My phone says low 4's high 3's logs are high 4's..


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It is from the log, I took the MPH trace, took the first point @ 0mph right before the car starts to move, and the first point at/past 60 mph (in this case 60.12 mph I believe). The logs should be pretty accurate with regards to the times, and high 4s seems reasonable. High 3s in a 4400lb family sedan seems a little skewed.
 
derfdog15 said:
f8tlSHO said:
The 4.78 seconds, did you just figure that out from the log? I have done it this way, and with an app on my phone. Unfortunately the log numbers aren't as nice as the ones from my phone. But I bet they are far more accurate. My phone says low 4's high 3's logs are high 4's..


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It is from the log, I took the MPH trace, took the first point @ 0mph right before the car starts to move, and the first point at/past 60 mph (in this case 60.12 mph I believe). The logs should be pretty accurate with regards to the times, and high 4s seems reasonable. High 3s in a 4400lb family sedan seems a little skewed.
That's exactly how I did it when I used a log


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f8tlSHO said:
derfdog15 said:
f8tlSHO said:
The 4.78 seconds, did you just figure that out from the log? I have done it this way, and with an app on my phone. Unfortunately the log numbers aren't as nice as the ones from my phone. But I bet they are far more accurate. My phone says low 4's high 3's logs are high 4's..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is from the log, I took the MPH trace, took the first point @ 0mph right before the car starts to move, and the first point at/past 60 mph (in this case 60.12 mph I believe). The logs should be pretty accurate with regards to the times, and high 4s seems reasonable. High 3s in a 4400lb family sedan seems a little skewed.
That's exactly how I did it when I used a log


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+2. That's how I did mine, too.

Not sure how the GPS refresh rate is on all the different phones, but I haven't had good luck with anything but steady state speed measurements on my iPhone.


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I think the clock ticks/speed should he pretty accurate...becuase the ecu has to have an accurate time keeper for the fuel mass calculations.....it measures pounds of fuel per injection event so the values are really small
 
Got hold of the dyno shop, power pulls scheduled for..... TOMORROW AFTERNOON!!!!

Plan is to run 2 pulls with Rev21, then load my "stock" tune. It won't really be stock, but it stock boost and spark, with no additional optimizations. Rear O2s are turned off and BOV stuff set up properly for my setup in the "stock tune" as well as 3 bar MAP transfer function.

This will show the gains of the boost optimization, fueling, and wastegate mod.

I am super excited!
 
derfdog15 said:
Got hold of the dyno shop, power pulls scheduled for..... TOMORROW AFTERNOON!!!!

Plan is to run 2 pulls with Rev21, then load my "stock" tune. It won't really be stock, but it stock boost and spark, with no additional optimizations. Rear O2s are turned off and BOV stuff set up properly for my setup in the "stock tune" as well as 3 bar MAP transfer function.

This will show the gains of the boost optimization, fueling, and wastegate mod.

I am super excited!
Subscribed!!! Can't wait to see results


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Looking forward to it!...your stock pull will be a little higher than normal though....since you are catless and will likely have 0 knock retard and be running the full amount allowed of spark advance because of the e20 in the tank

But it will still be nice to see what the boost, spark and throttle optimization yields

You need no hookups if they ask...no boost or wideband most shops charge for wideband hookup

F8tlsho you and derf's tunes are extremely close to eachother if memory serves me....so maybe this will serve as a decent approximation for you
 
f8tlSHO said:
derfdog15 said:
Got hold of the dyno shop, power pulls scheduled for..... TOMORROW AFTERNOON!!!!

Plan is to run 2 pulls with Rev21, then load my "stock" tune. It won't really be stock, but it stock boost and spark, with no additional optimizations. Rear O2s are turned off and BOV stuff set up properly for my setup in the "stock tune" as well as 3 bar MAP transfer function.

This will show the gains of the boost optimization, fueling, and wastegate mod.

I am super excited!
Subscribed!!! Can't wait to see results


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You and me both! You and me both!!!!

AJP turbo said:
Looking forward to it!...your stock pull will be a little higher than normal though....since you are catless and will likely have 0 knock retard and be running the full amount allowed of spark advance because of the e20 in the tank

But it will still be nice to see what the boost, spark and throttle optimization yields

You need no hookups if they ask...no boost or wideband most shops charge for wideband hookup

F8tlsho you and derf's tunes are extremely close to eachother if memory serves me....so maybe this will serve as a decent approximation for you

It should still serve as a good representation of the gains from an AJPTurbo Tune, as it will show the gains from the boost, opened up spark limit, and wastegate mod.

That is also good to know for me, as it tells me this car should run low 12s or maybe break into the 11's based on the times he has run with his car.
 
MiWiAu said:
Hey derf, get the dyno data files, too, if they'll give them to you!


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Yeah good idea...if you have the raw files you can view them with winpep dynojet software and overlay different runs and see how stock compares
 
AJP turbo said:
MiWiAu said:
Yeah good idea...if you have the raw files you can view them with winpep dynojet software and overlay different runs and see how stock compares

I know a guy who can Excel the $hit out of the raw data, too! LOL




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MiWiAu said:
Hey derf, get the dyno data files, too, if they'll give them to you!


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I'll see what I can do!

AJP turbo said:
Yeah good idea...if you have the raw files you can view them with winpep dynojet software and overlay different runs and see how stock compares

Definitely something I want to be able do to!

MiWiAu said:
I know a guy who can Excel the $hit out of the raw data, too! LOL

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Gee, I wonder who that could be .... *unsuspecting whistling*
 
I am dynoing my car later today, on a Dynojet 424 with Linked Rollers and a Load Cell.

Talking to AJPTurbo he mentioned when he dyno'd his car on a similar Dynojet it acted a bit weird dynoing in 3rd, but 4th worked out well. Suggested possibly even dynoing in 5th gear as it is 1:1.

Any thoughts, suggestions, comments?

Just trying to educate myself a bit more.
 
It didnt act wierd but there was a lot of drag and load on the linked dynojet i was on...my 3rd gear pull lasted around 12 seconds.....ive ran 5th gear on my mustang and the pull lasted the same

When the rollers were linked it felt like the car had 1000 lbs on it...it just seemed unnatural how slow the car pulled through the gear

I would caution that if you try a gear like 4th or 5th and the pull gets near or past 20 seconds that is a long time at wot while sitting still and things get incredibly hot...i never see dyno vids that last 20 seconds.

I told the guy at my shop i wanted 1:1  and he kinda shook his head and said may want to try a lower gear and see how long it takes
 
Per my prior e-mail exchanges with AJP, it was suggested to me to use a gear that allows a pull over 10-15 seconds. Longer than that, you are putting unneeded strain on the PT.

I ran my last round of Explorer dyno testing in 3rd gear, and I was way toward the bottom end of that range (maybe even 9 sec, I'd have to double check). I did something like 20 pulls, though, and wanted to be extra cautious not to over-strain my truck. I also did all my on-road data logs in 3rd gear, so I wanted to have a comparison to my dyno pulls.

Traditional inertia dynos calculate force (F=ma) using the known mass of the rollers and the acceleration of the vehicle, which is why it's important to try and run as close to 1:1 gear as possible to minimize drivetrain losses and errors from correction factors. Load based dynos (like the Mustang I ran on) uses a load cell to measure roll force directly, so gearing doesn't really matter.

You mentioned that the DJ you'll be on has a load cell as well, so maybe gearing doesn't matter as much? I think the most important thing is to run all YOUR pulls in the same gear (now and in the future). In that case, even if your absolute numbers are off a little, your relative gains/measurements will be accurate.

Couple other thoughts based on my recent experience:

1) Have them target your pulls from 2000 - 6000 RPM
2) If you decide to data log, I found it much easier to just use the X4, and I loaded the data onto my laptop between pulls. I originally tried to log directly to the laptop but had persistent connectivity issues with all the ignition cycling.
3) Run with the hood up. Most dyno shops don't have high velocity fans, and there's no sense in heat soaking your engine. Hood up will allow intake temps as close to ambient as possible (more representative of real-world driving) and not overcook your engine bay due to otherwise lower air velocities.
4) My XSport has a cooling duct under the right side of the engine that runs to the rear turbo. I brought my own separate blower fan to blow air down this cooling duct, since the shop fan didn't direct much air there. Not sure if the SHO has something similar or not.
5) I monitored CHT temps and did not start my next run until temps were back down to where we started the prior pull.

Have fun!! :)
 
Thanks guys, they have a lot of experience with AWD cars so I will ask for their guidance as well. CHT seems like a good metric to keep constant so I will try to do that as well.

No clue about a cooling duct, but I am going straight from work, so not prepared to that level. I expect three pulls (with only two being full out performance tuned) will not put much strain so all should go well.

I'll try and update the relevant threads with my results once I have them.

As for logging, I am for sure going to log with the X4, most likely one log file with the two performance tune pulls, I will dump the log to my laptop before tuning to stock, then a log for the stock tune.

2K to 6K sounds about perfect, and is almost identical to most of my 3rd gear road tune pulls, so we should be good in that aspect as well.

AJPTurbo was kind enough to revise my "stock" tune, to allow for holding the gear, so I can set it into 3rd and let it rip for both pulls.

Thanks again guys!
 
derfdog15 said:
AJPTurbo was kind enough to revise my "stock" tune, to allow for holding the gear, so I can set it into 3rd and let it rip for both pulls.

He's a peach, ain't he?! :)

He did the same for me and made it SOOO much easier on the dyno (and for data logs)!

One last thing... If you can, bring a flash drive for your raw data. Some dyno computers aren't hooked up to the interwebs.


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