AJPTurbo boost regulator mod with EcoPowerParts charge pipes

[f8tlSHO]

Cutting the spring should create less preload, which would create less pressure. I have done this at work many times to get a desired pressure if I have a spring break in a die and I don't have the correct one to replace it. That's why I have the spring tester at work. The big spring is prob 5-6 inches long in its free state. Gets compressed down to 2-3 inches. A 6 inch spring compressed to 3 inches will have more pressure than the same spring at a free length of 4 inches compressed at the same rate.


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[derfdog15]

Cutting the spring should create less preload, which would create less pressure. I have done this at work many times to get a desired pressure if I have a spring break in a die and I don't have the correct one to replace it. That's why I have the spring tester at work. The big spring is prob 5-6 inches long in its free state. Gets compressed down to 2-3 inches. A 6 inch spring compressed to 3 inches will have more pressure than the same spring at a free length of 4 inches compressed at the same rate.


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Gotcha, I have never done it so was not aware of the theory/practice. Also, did you see my edit to the last post, about the "Bleeder Valve" method of boost controller? May be worth a shot.

 

[MiWiAu]

Would be interesting to see the two data sets overlaye onto each other, for complete 1:1 comparison. I also am interested to know if it changed any wastegate mod performance for you. I think their may just be manufacturing tolerance/location differences due to transverse that caused your fitment issue, but not entirely sure.

I tried doing an overlay, but it was just too messy to read. I kept the Y axis scaled the same, so it should be fairly easy to see relative differences.

For this test, I kept my wastegate reference hooked up to the charge pipe, since the only variable I wanted to test was the Boost Reference Adapter (I plugged both ports on the BRA). After I completed the comparison (and was confident that my readings were consistent), I changed my gate springs from the 18.85 to the 17.40 springs, and hooked up my reference to the adapter. Now with the lighter springs, the gate is not opening, so the lower manifold reference seems to be doing what I want to.

I'm going to move back down to the 15.95 springs and see if that helps me dial it in, but I need to run through my current tank of gas and get some 93 put back in (got stuck at a station that only had 91 no-ethanol).

 

[MiWiAu]

Cutting the spring should create less preload, which would create less pressure. I have done this at work many times to get a desired pressure if I have a spring break in a die and I don't have the correct one to replace it. That's why I have the spring tester at work. The big spring is prob 5-6 inches long in its free state. Gets compressed down to 2-3 inches. A 6 inch spring compressed to 3 inches will have more pressure than the same spring at a free length of 4 inches compressed at the same rate.

If you shorten the spring by cutting out active coils, you are also increasing your spring rate (which means your valve might not open as far due to higher spring reaction forces). By reducing "na" in the formula below, you are decreasing your denominator and increasing your spring rate (k). Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to be aware of depending on the application.

Your preload is simply your spring rate (k) times your compressed distance (make sure your units are compatible).

Here's the math for spring rate (k), for anyone interested (copied from thespringstore.com):

k = Gd^4 ÷ (8D^3 na)

G = E ÷ 2 ( 1 + V)

D = D outer - d

Formula symbols:

d = Wire Diameter
D outer = Outer Diameter
D = Mean Diameter
E = Young's Modulus of Material
G = Shear Modulus of Material
L free = Free Length
k = Spring Rate (Spring Constant)
na = Active Coils
v = Poison's Ratio of Material

 

[f8tlSHO]

Gotcha, I have never done it so was not aware of the theory/practice. Also, did you see my edit to the last post, about the "Bleeder Valve" method of boost controller? May be worth a shot.
[/quote]

I have never seen it hooked up like this. Maybe this is why I am having so much trouble. Thank u. I wondered what the top port was for. But their is no seal in between the top and the gate. I would imagine I would need one.



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[derfdog15]

I am not sure on the seal, the gate doesn't leak as it is currently set up, so I assume it wouldnt leak with the "bleeder valve" set up either. As it is now, it pushes air out of there, essentially the bleeder valve puts pressure back in, so it needs more pressure at the bottom of the diaphragm to open up.

 

[MiWiAu]

I have never seen it hooked up like this. Maybe this is why I am having so much trouble. Thank u. I wondered what the top port was for. But their is no seal in between the top and the gate. I would imagine I would need one.

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My Tial MV-S doesn't have a seal for the top side either. Maybe the mating surfaces are good enough to hold the pressure. Some RTV might provide some additional peace of mind. Might make it more of a PITA to change springs, though, LOL. I'd try without first.

Nice find, derf!



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[f8tlSHO]

[/quote]

If you shorten the spring by cutting out active coils, you are also increasing your spring rate (which means your valve might not open as far due to higher spring reaction forces). By reducing "na" in the formula below, you are decreasing your denominator and increasing your spring rate (k). Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to be aware of depending on the application.

Your preload is simply your spring rate (k) times your compressed distance (make sure your units are compatible).
[/quote]

It would prob be more of a problem i was only using 1 spring (increasing the spring rate).



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[MiWiAu]

I am not sure on the seal, the gate doesn't leak as it is currently set up, so I assume it wouldnt leak with the "bleeder valve" set up either. As it is now, it pushes air out of there, essentially the bleeder valve puts pressure back in, so it needs more pressure at the bottom of the diaphragm to open up.

I didn't pay attention to the cap to see if there is a feature that retains the diaphragm in place? That would provide a seal from the bottom side. Not sure about the top. I'm going to change over my springs tomorrow evening, so I'll take a closer look at mine while it's apart.


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[f8tlSHO]

I have never seen it hooked up like this. Maybe this is why I am having so much trouble. Thank u. I wondered what the top port was for. But their is no seal in between the top and the gate. I would imagine I would need one.

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My Tial MV-S doesn't have a seal for the top side either. Maybe the mating surfaces are good enough to hold the pressure. Some RTV might provide some additional peace of mind. Might make it more of a PITA to change springs, though, LOL. I'd try without first.

Nice find, derf!



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Maybe a paper seal to start with


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[f8tlSHO]

Man... I blew it, the mbc is hooked up backwards... in too much of a hurry with too much stuff going on..

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[derfdog15]

Man... I blew it, the mbc is hooked up backwards... in too much of a hurry with too much stuff going on..

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At least you figured it out now! And its pretty simple to flip, try it the correct way and report back!

 

[f8tlSHO]

Man... I blew it, the mbc is hooked up backwards... in too much of a hurry with too much stuff going on..

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At least you figured it out now! And its pretty simple to flip, try it the correct way and report back!

Can't believe I did this... lol.. I am off tomorrow with the kids, but I will have my wife's Odyssey. Gotta pick up a load of hardwood flooring. Can't really do that in the sho. Made sure the tank was full in the sho, don't need her screwing up the e20 mix


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[MiWiAu]

Good thing you caught it before chopping springs!


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[f8tlSHO]

Good thing you caught it before chopping springs!


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We will see if it changes anything..


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[derfdog15]

Good thing you caught it before chopping springs!


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We will see if it changes anything..


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The way the MBC is made, it should, there is basically a valve that opens and lets the air through at the desired level. When you turn the knob it applys pressure to the ball bearing to increase/decrease that desired pressure level. Since you have it reversed, it can't see the pressure properly, and the ball bearing does not open properly. Fixing the orientation should allow it to actually control boost.

 

[f8tlSHO]

Good thing you caught it before chopping springs!


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We will see if it changes anything..


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The way the MBC is made, it should, there is basically a valve that opens and lets the air through at the desired level. When you turn the knob it applys pressure to the ball bearing to increase/decrease that desired pressure level. Since you have it reversed, it can't see the pressure properly, and the ball bearing does not open properly. Fixing the orientation should allow it to actually control boost.

I hope you are right


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[2013blksho]

You guys great thread going here. I will be tinkering soon as well. Just picked up my x4 and will be sending Brad info next week then off to the tool box!

 

[MiWiAu]

I hope you are right

Any luck swapping those MBC connections, f8tl?


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[f8tlSHO]

I hope you are right

Any luck swapping those MBC connections, f8tl?


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I just got it swapped around yesterday, busy week.. I have not gotten it dialed in yet, but I am slowly working on it. trust me I am eager to report back as soon as I have news. Good or bad


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