No Meth required 403WHP/527WTQ

[ajpturbo]

Thats why its also retarded when people say that you can get a same result by either doing more spark and less boost or more boost and less spark.....you tune max spark at all boost for a properly tuned car

You might be generalizing a bit here. Some platforms respond better to timing and others to boost. I suppose the ecoboost might fit this bill, but haven't we seen logs where some run more boost with less timing and others more timing with less boost? Sounds like you've found the sweet spot for your car. I doubt many other tuners would put in the time that you have.

You always are running less than mbt spark with pump gas and forced induction...so the fuel is the limitation...so in that case you want as much spark as the fuel will tolerate at any load

I know what you are thinking...but there can be differences in what a persons car/fuel combo can handle from car to car...but all things being equal . Its all about cylinder pressure...so max spark on max boost will always be best until the boost is so high the turbo becomes inefficient

 

[ajpturbo]

More boost and less spark would be needless stress on the turbo

You simply want the most cylinder pressure the fuel can handle at the lowest boost for the sake of the turbo

All the tunes except the stock one in my dyno testing were at the max spark i saw as safe according to the knock sensor...so less boost was always less power

 

[Sinister-CO]

Yeah, I get it. I was just saying that different platforms respond differently. Regardless it's obvious that you've got a good tune running there. Nice work!

 

[ajpturbo]

Shodded you asked before about my maintenance schedule......Just normal stuff really''

At 2k I put in amsoil severe gear PTU and RDU fluid and plan on changing them both every 25-30k or 2 years..Amsoil recommends those to go much longer though

At 2k I put in Amsoil LV signature trans fluid also flushed the converter also...Plan on doing that maybe at 50k...Amsoil says to go much longer than that also

Oil is Amsoil signature 0w-30 every 5k with amsoil filter

I have 20k on her now

I still have stock plugs and may put new stock plugs in at 50k and probably new coolant and brake fluid then too.

 

[JDW1]

J will there really is no secret sauce...get boost up and add as much spark as your fuel and individual car will tolerate and the power is there

The method of adding boost seems indirect but its the system that ford and most drive by wire cars employ today...everything starts at the pedal...the driver demands more torque from the pedal then the car takes over and gives you what you think you want

You can set timing or spark to whatever you want...basically with forced induction tuning , you set spark just shy of whatever the fuel can tolerate

We have full control of fuel with sct

Its really not fair or accurate to say the 3.5 ecoboost runs out of fuel quickly....but the limitation is a hardware issue not a tuning issue

The fuel system we have is actually pretty strong and impressive..we are increasing hp/tq way over stock ...its unfair to say the fuel sytem is taxed because we cant add 200hp and 300ft lbs without needing an upgrade....what fuel system wouldnt?

The way i increased output on this tune is exactly how ford would...it can be done that way with sct but i dont know how other tuners are utilizing the software...there are ways to force a result that is less than ideal

Thats why its also retarded when people say that you can get a same result by either doing more spark and less boost or more boost and less spark.....you tune max spark at all boost for a properly tuned car

I don't see how you run that much boost and don't see FP drop to unsafe levels.  I've had to dial back way before that level.  It's very impressive. 

 

[ajpturbo]

J will there really is no secret sauce...get boost up and add as much spark as your fuel and individual car will tolerate and the power is there

The method of adding boost seems indirect but its the system that ford and most drive by wire cars employ today...everything starts at the pedal...the driver demands more torque from the pedal then the car takes over and gives you what you think you want

You can set timing or spark to whatever you want...basically with forced induction tuning , you set spark just shy of whatever the fuel can tolerate

We have full control of fuel with sct

Its really not fair or accurate to say the 3.5 ecoboost runs out of fuel quickly....but the limitation is a hardware issue not a tuning issue

The fuel system we have is actually pretty strong and impressive..we are increasing hp/tq way over stock ...its unfair to say the fuel sytem is taxed because we cant add 200hp and 300ft lbs without needing an upgrade....what fuel system wouldnt?

The way i increased output on this tune is exactly how ford would...it can be done that way with sct but i dont know how other tuners are utilizing the software...there are ways to force a result that is less than ideal

Thats why its also retarded when people say that you can get a same result by either doing more spark and less boost or more boost and less spark.....you tune max spark at all boost for a properly tuned car

I don't see how you run that much boost and don't see FP drop to unsafe levels.  I've had to dial back way before that level.  It's very impressive.

Did you see the log I attached? There are a couple things I think I found out that allows the high pressure pump to operate more wide open...There may have been a couple things limiting it's output but they were minor

One thing thing though that I do is try to make boost smooth and avoid spikes...When you get large boost spikes it quickly will deplete the fuel pressure that is in the rail due to increased fuel demand and the injector pulsewidth increases in an attempt to dump large amounts of fuel...Once the rail is depleted it becomes hard for it to recover when you are at high boost for a sustained amount of time

 

[metroplex]

At 20% drive line loss which is conservative you're looking at minimal...

480CHP/633 CTQ

On pump gas!

I've found that most of the modern FWD/RWD/AWD systems have about 14%-15% drivetrain loss (manual or automatics), not the 20%-25% that everyone uses as a rule of thumb.

That said, that's still a lot of power. The Hennessey 445 or 435 only had about 340 whp / 340 wtq from one of the articles I read.

 

[bpd1151]

I've found that most of the modern FWD/RWD/AWD systems have about 14%-15% drivetrain loss (manual or automatics).

Not the 20%-25% that everyone uses as a rule of thumb.

The average stock dyno numbers for 2010-2012 models ranged between 277-283 wheel hp.

I believe the same has held true for the 2013+'s as Ford has advertised 365 crank hp, consistently across all models years.

That equates to an average drive train loss of 22-23%.

Doesn't really matter what you've found as it relates to other platforms.

The Ecoboost platform has shown time & time again, to not embrace the "norms".

The drivetrain loss is as I stated, & why it is used as a rule of thumb for the EB SHO.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[metroplex]

Nice.

So what kind of air mass flow numbers (#/min) are you seeing at this power level?

 

[ajpturbo]

Nice.

So what kind of air mass flow numbers (#/min) are you seeing at this power level?

I have not been aboe to log DMR items with live link yet...im guessing it has to be in the 40-50 range in pounds per minute

 

[ZSHO]

Boom!

Great job!

X 2. Damn Nice.  Z  :thumb:

 

[ajpturbo]

Scott I did a 0-100 mph pull and log for you...Tell me what you think and how it compares to your pulls. It's under the dyno and log of the big pull...Can't remember the post

I would say note the fuel pressure and even boost throughout the gears....You already saw even boost for the 3rd gear pull from 2500rpm to redline....Not much boost taper at redline..

 

[metroplex]

AJ: Are those boost spikes (TIP readings) really in the 20-27 psi range during your shifts?

 

[4DRHTRD]

Looking forward to seeing 1/4 mile times, great job on the self tuning.

 

[ajpturbo]

AJ: Are those boost spikes (TIP readings) really in the 20-27 psi range during your shifts?

Thank you mike

And metro, yes tip sensor reading will typically be high when the throttle is not fully open...if you want to avoid prolonged boost spikes upon upshifts you are well served to have the throttle regulate boost pressure measured by the map sensor....you have the x boost in the map then when the throttle closes the tip pressure will rise because the airflow is hitting a wall

 

[Scott4957]

Scott I did a 0-100 mph pull and log for you...Tell me what you think and how it compares to your pulls. It's under the dyno and log of the big pull...Can't remember the post

I would say note the fuel pressure and even boost throughout the gears....You already saw even boost for the 3rd gear pull from 2500rpm to redline....Not much boost taper at redline..

Absolute monster by any measure let alone being a 93 only tune!

 

[SHOnUup]

AJ, have a few people saying congrats on the numbers...and asking questions.

If you don't mind, to calm their minds of the unknown.

What are you using to tune with, and do you have any mods at all?

Thx

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[ajpturbo]

AJ, have a few people saying congrats on the numbers...and asking questions.

If you don't mind, to calm their minds of the unknown.

What are you using to tune with, and do you have any mods at all?

Thx

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I use SCT software flashed with an x4

Air raid cai and stainless works catless down pipes, stock plugs, stock tstat and all amsoil fluids...not that they matter...and obviously a 3 bar map sensor

 

[SHOnUup]

Thank you...and those fluids count in my book!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[ajpturbo]

Thank you...and those fluids count in my book!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Hell yeah