AJPTurbo boost regulator mod with EcoPowerParts charge pipes
- Thread starter derfdog15
- Start date
f8tlSHO said:Thanks miwiau!! Just so u guys know, he wouldn't let me pay him for the hose. Only downside, you guys will have to wait a couple days for a log.
No problem. Just pay it forward to another forum member when you have the opportunity.
I needed to bank some karma! HahaIt will be there Wednesday. PM'd you the tracking number.
P.S. Next time, wait until I don't have any active "for sale" posts before you remind everyone how big my soft spot is. LOL. J/K
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MiWiAu said:No problem. Just pay it forward to another forum member when you have the opportunity.
It will be there Wednesday. PM'd you the tracking number.
P.S. Next time, wait until I don't have any active "for sale" posts before you remind everyone how big my soft spot is. LOL. J/K
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In all honesty, knowing what silicon connectors cost, if I was a potential buyer of one of your fine wares, I would be less likely to haggle seeing the good you've done here. If that go pro doesn't sell before I get my next paycheck and a few bills taken care of I'll be PMing you my address and paypal so you can send me an invoice.
MiWiAu said:
I didn't notice any differences, which is kinda what I expected, the NPT stuff is tapered so it should have a pretty good seal on its own. You can see in the logs that it is still working amazingly. From my last rev Brad is thinking I am teetering on the edge of maxing out the stock fueling capabilities. That said these logs are in below freezing weather, so this would have a lot more margin in the warm, but I really want the HPFP to come out soon (even though I don't want to handle the price tag - looks like HPFP + Injectors +In-tank fuel pump upgrade will be close to 4-5K in all honesty).
MiWiAu said:Haha, thanks, derf.
Now, get back on topic before Z yells at you!!
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Haha already ahead of ya, though I believe the silicon couplers are on topic, and go-pros are always on topic cause then we could get videos of that whoosh.
AJP turbo said:
You the man, I probably asked way more questions than necessary, but the screen shot is lovely! Attached here for anyone interested.
Sounds like a plan on the fuel system, start with the HPFP and see where that can take us, then go from there. Definitely will lighten the load a bit.
I am going to start working on scheduling some Dyno time, to get a few pulls in on the car, I would not be surprised to see 400/400 or more on the rollers, IDK if that's optimistic or not.
As for the future of the car, looks like the tune is basically ironed out, until there is a bit more fuel margin on the stock setup in the warmer months.
Then mod list will be HPFP, ATP Turbos, and custom FMIC. ATPs and HPFP may switch places depending on my marvelous tuners input (Ahem AJPTurbo...seriously guys, he is amazing).
A few of his key comments on this log:
"I see you had some traction problems lol" - Extremely true, in similar temperature with a throttle closed tune, the car hooked much more of the bat, which tells me there are significant torque gains to be had from this mod. I have yet to dyno my car, but I expect to have a good amount of torque when I do.
"Your fuel pressure on the multi gear was nice and I think you are hitting about 16 psi and E20 so not bad...The fuel pressure dropped to about 1300 while spooling up on the 3rd gear pull....You were at about 16 psi at 3k RPM and it spooled up really fast so even though the boost didn't really spike it still ramped up fast and that's what kills rail pressure.....You probably are hitting 15 psi well below 3k but you started that log kinda high in the RPM."
Again, he is spot on. He is happy with fuel pressure, so that makes me feel good, and I know the tune is safe, since we are in frigid below freezing temps. Definitely a safe track tune. And I usually log my 3rd gear pulls from 2k RPM (which is what he asks), but this one was closer to 3k as the starting point, so we missed the boost ramp up on the 3rd gear pull. Still everything looks safe, and I am extremely pleased.
Overall, I am super happy with the way this car is going.
To amend my previous post, mods in order of necessity will be FMIC, ATP Turbos, then HPFP, since the FMIC will benefit stock turbos and the upgraded ones. With ATPs due to increased efficiency, we can run same power at lower boost (this is why I check with Brad on mods now, he knows what he is doing for sure!). Finally, HPFP we can bump E percentage or increase boost on the current set up. After that who knows.
Some day I will do coilovers, but I DD the SHO in all weather conditions, so lowering it may be detrimental in the winter, and I am too lazy to change ride height and realign for different weather. But one day the SHO will be a 3 season DD and I'll have a more winter oriented beater (or who knows, could be an ecoboost Expedition/Explorer). At that point I can do coilovers and set it and forget it. However, for the at most .3 seconds that the coilovers would gain, it is money better spend elsewhere I believe.
That's a WHOLE lotta torque, getting me excited now!
"I see you had some traction problems lol" - Extremely true, in similar temperature with a throttle closed tune, the car hooked much more of the bat, which tells me there are significant torque gains to be had from this mod. I have yet to dyno my car, but I expect to have a good amount of torque when I do.
"Your fuel pressure on the multi gear was nice and I think you are hitting about 16 psi and E20 so not bad...The fuel pressure dropped to about 1300 while spooling up on the 3rd gear pull....You were at about 16 psi at 3k RPM and it spooled up really fast so even though the boost didn't really spike it still ramped up fast and that's what kills rail pressure.....You probably are hitting 15 psi well below 3k but you started that log kinda high in the RPM."
Again, he is spot on. He is happy with fuel pressure, so that makes me feel good, and I know the tune is safe, since we are in frigid below freezing temps. Definitely a safe track tune. And I usually log my 3rd gear pulls from 2k RPM (which is what he asks), but this one was closer to 3k as the starting point, so we missed the boost ramp up on the 3rd gear pull. Still everything looks safe, and I am extremely pleased.
Overall, I am super happy with the way this car is going.
To amend my previous post, mods in order of necessity will be FMIC, ATP Turbos, then HPFP, since the FMIC will benefit stock turbos and the upgraded ones. With ATPs due to increased efficiency, we can run same power at lower boost (this is why I check with Brad on mods now, he knows what he is doing for sure!). Finally, HPFP we can bump E percentage or increase boost on the current set up. After that who knows.
Some day I will do coilovers, but I DD the SHO in all weather conditions, so lowering it may be detrimental in the winter, and I am too lazy to change ride height and realign for different weather. But one day the SHO will be a 3 season DD and I'll have a more winter oriented beater (or who knows, could be an ecoboost Expedition/Explorer). At that point I can do coilovers and set it and forget it. However, for the at most .3 seconds that the coilovers would gain, it is money better spend elsewhere I believe.
AJP turbo said:
That's a WHOLE lotta torque, getting me excited now!
derfdog15 said:
Dag yo! Makes me even more curious what's so different betw the SHO and XSport where I can only get ~10deg advance. Maybe just the extra weight and higher aerodynamic loads.
Good on you guys for kicking so much ass!
If you can get a stock log on the dyno as well, that would be pretty sweet. At my local shop, they will do 3 pulls for $90 or $100/ hr. If they don't dilly dally with strapping you down, you should easily be able to get through multiple pulls on two tunes and not exceed an hour, since no additional external instrumentation is required.
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MiWiAu said:derfdog15 said:
Dag yo! Makes me even more curious what's so different betw the SHO and XSport where I can only get ~10deg advance. Maybe just the extra weight and higher aerodynamic loads.
Good on you guys for kicking so much ass!
If you can get a stock log on the dyno as well, that would be pretty sweet. At my local shop, they will do 3 pulls for $90 or $100/ hr. If they don't dilly dally with strapping you down, you should easily be able to get through multiple pulls on two tunes and not exceed an hour, since no additional external instrumentation is required.
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For stock logs, atleast on my car, its more of the hardware inaccuracy that would cause an issue. I can swap to the 2 bar, and use the fully stock tune or use a "stock tune" that accounts for the mods, but either way the wastegate mod will be there, TiAL BOV will be there (so stock 2bar tune most likely would throw a fit). Downpipes are there and catless (again stock 2 bartune will get pissy), and I won't be swapping my CAI on the dyno either. So it seems like it would be kinda a mish mash. The shop told me, when we last spoke, that the rate they charge is $100 per three pulls for just straight dyno sessions, so stock logs would cost extra as well. I think with the number of SHOs we have seen stock logs of, and the E20 that I run (which on a stock 2bar tune, would not fair the best IMO) it would be more hassle to get them. I should have dyno'd it when I first got it.
Also for anyone interested, they use a DynoJet 424 with linked roller. The shop in question does a lot of turbo fab work, and is the same shop I plan to have do the custom FMIC ( http://www.fathousefab.com/services/dyno-tuning/ ). They also have done some work on GTRs etc, so they know what they are doing when it comes to dynoing AWD.
If I have the time, and people want it, I may be able to load the "stock" tune adjustments that I had in case of gas issue on the road, which would have BOVs turned off, rear O2s off, and 3 bar transfer function, and get a comparison of the car with the mods but no spark advance, boost advance, etc. I will talk to them in a bit more detail and see what kinda price I can work out.
Also, as far as the spark, part of that is the E20, the E blends LOVE spark. we had to raise the stock spark limit due to the E, and due to the cold air I don't have to worry about the IAT going over 150 and causing spark limit to be lower. But it is odd that the Xsport doesn't like spark advance. Have you done the knock sensor wire mod? Just curious. Also, have you done any experimenting with E blend, my spark was a LOT lower on 93, like closer to the 10-12 degree range if I remember correctly, so honestly 10 degrees seems pretty normal for 93 in that case.
Not sure where my advance is but I have good gas in my area... car likes more spark I know that from what ajp says.derfdog15 said:MiWiAu said:derfdog15 said:
Dag yo! Makes me even more curious what's so different betw the SHO and XSport where I can only get ~10deg advance. Maybe just the extra weight and higher aerodynamic loads.
Good on you guys for kicking so much ass!
If you can get a stock log on the dyno as well, that would be pretty sweet. At my local shop, they will do 3 pulls for $90 or $100/ hr. If they don't dilly dally with strapping you down, you should easily be able to get through multiple pulls on two tunes and not exceed an hour, since no additional external instrumentation is required.
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For stock logs, atleast on my car, its more of the hardware inaccuracy that would cause an issue. I can swap to the 2 bar, and use the fully stock tune or use a "stock tune" that accounts for the mods, but either way the wastegate mod will be there, TiAL BOV will be there (so stock 2bar tune most likely would throw a fit). Downpipes are there and catless (again stock 2 bartune will get pissy), and I won't be swapping my CAI on the dyno either. So it seems like it would be kinda a mish mash. The shop told me, when we last spoke, that the rate they charge is $100 per three pulls for just straight dyno sessions, so stock logs would cost extra as well. I think with the number of SHOs we have seen stock logs of, and the E20 that I run (which on a stock 2bar tune, would not fair the best IMO) it would be more hassle to get them. I should have dyno'd it when I first got it.
Also for anyone interested, they use a DynoJet 424 with linked roller. The shop in question does a lot of turbo fab work, and is the same shop I plan to have do the custom FMIC ( http://www.fathousefab.com/services/dyno-tuning/ ). They also have done some work on GTRs etc, so they know what they are doing when it comes to dynoing AWD.
If I have the time, and people want it, I may be able to load the "stock" tune adjustments that I had in case of gas issue on the road, which would have BOVs turned off, rear O2s off, and 3 bar transfer function, and get a comparison of the car with the mods but no spark advance, boost advance, etc. I will talk to them in a bit more detail and see what kinda price I can work out.
Also, as far as the spark, part of that is the E20, the E blends LOVE spark. we had to raise the stock spark limit due to the E, and due to the cold air I don't have to worry about the IAT going over 150 and causing spark limit to be lower. But it is odd that the Xsport doesn't like spark advance. Have you done the knock sensor wire mod? Just curious. Also, have you done any experimenting with E blend, my spark was a LOT lower on 93, like closer to the 10-12 degree range if I remember correctly, so honestly 10 degrees seems pretty normal for 93 in that case.
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No E-xperimentation for me. This is a DD, and my wife drives it when I'm out of town for work. I worry enough that she'll put the right fuel in, so I don't want to make it any more complex for her.
I did the knock sensor wire fix early on when I was working with Torrie to try and bring down knock. No discernible difference pre/post mod for me.
I'm still happy where I'm at with my AJP tunes for a 4700lb beast (not including my flub).
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I did the knock sensor wire fix early on when I was working with Torrie to try and bring down knock. No discernible difference pre/post mod for me.
I'm still happy where I'm at with my AJP tunes for a 4700lb beast (not including my flub).
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MiWiAu said:
Gotcha, definitely makes sense.
Also, small update, cause I got curious. The 0-60 on my multi gear pull (in 17.6 degree ambient) was 4.78 seconds, and as you can see in the attached screenshot, I was not at full boost in 1st or 2nd due to traction issues (slipped almost all the way to third). That alone tells me the car is much much quicker as it is now.
On my car (2015 Performance Package) I can turn traction all the way off. When I'm at the track, or logging in temperatures a bit warmer ~45 or higher, I turn it all the way off to keep it from cutting boost. Car still spins sometimes, but it doesn't pull power. But at temperatures cooler than that, especially below freezing, I leave it on since it is safer, and gives me a little extra safety if the car tries to kick out when I go WOT.
I think there was experimentation in the past for fully disabling traction control on the non PP cars, but I do not know where it stands.
I think there was experimentation in the past for fully disabling traction control on the non PP cars, but I do not know where it stands.